Inside Harlem’s Fashion Row’s 19th Annual Awards Show Beauty Looks
Our take
The energy surrounding Harlem’s Fashion Row’s 19th Annual Awards Show and Fashion Show is palpable, and the beauty looks emerging from backstage offer a compelling visual narrative. The theme, "Peace by Piece," speaks to the deliberate, often challenging, journey of Black designers striving for visibility and sustained support. It’s a sentiment that resonates deeply, particularly given the ongoing conversations around inclusivity and equity within the fashion industry. We’ve seen similar discussions around broader trends this season, like the understated elegance championed by those wanting to [Want to Dress Like an Olsen This Fall? Your Wardrobe Needs This, This and This], demonstrating a move toward quiet sophistication. The beauty looks, then, aren’t merely aesthetic choices but rather a considered reflection of this slow, steady build, a visual embodiment of resilience and intentionality. This year’s show, with its focus on honoring Black creators, feels particularly relevant as we continue to see designers like Stuart Vevers at Coach sharing their [Coach's Stuart Vevers Shares His Trend Predictions for Fall], highlighting the evolving landscape of luxury and the importance of diverse perspectives.
The report from *The Zoe Report* details a beauty approach that mirrored the overall theme – thoughtful, understated, and undeniably powerful. It wasn’t about extravagant displays or fleeting trends; instead, the focus was on enhancing natural features and conveying a sense of self-assuredness. This aligns with the broader movement within beauty towards authenticity and celebrating individuality, a departure from the often-unattainable ideals perpetuated by mainstream media. The deliberate choices in hair and makeup – the subtle contouring, the carefully placed highlights, the textured hairstyles – all contributed to a cohesive narrative of understated elegance and quiet confidence. This is a far cry from the often-overdone looks that can dominate fashion events, showcasing a more mature and considered approach to beauty. It's a beauty language that speaks volumes without shouting, a characteristic we deeply appreciate. Even seemingly simple choices, like Katie Holmes’s continued devotion to a [Katie Holmes's Target Tote Was Designed by One of NYFW's Coolest Brands], underscore the power of embracing accessible style with unwavering confidence.
The significance of this approach extends beyond mere aesthetics. It’s a powerful statement about the evolving definition of beauty within the Black community and its increasing influence on the broader fashion landscape. For years, Black beauty standards have been shaped by external forces, often prioritizing assimilation over celebration of unique features. Harlem’s Fashion Row is actively challenging this narrative, showcasing beauty that is rooted in self-love, cultural pride, and a deep understanding of personal style. The meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail evident in the beauty looks reflect the same dedication and artistry found in the designs of the featured Black creators. It's a holistic presentation of talent and vision, demonstrating that beauty and fashion are inextricably linked.
Looking ahead, it will be fascinating to observe how this emphasis on understated elegance and authentic beauty continues to influence the industry. Will we see a broader shift away from fleeting trends and towards a more timeless and inclusive aesthetic? The success of Harlem’s Fashion Row and the positive reception of these beauty looks suggest a growing appetite for a more nuanced and thoughtful approach to style. Perhaps the future of beauty lies not in chasing the latest fad, but in cultivating a deeper sense of self-awareness and embracing the power of quiet confidence – a sentiment that resonates deeply with our own ethos of calm luxury and modern femininity.
The 19th edition of Harlem’s Fashion Row’s Annual Fashion Show and Style Awards embraced the theme “Peace by Piece”— a tribute to Black makers, shakers, designers, and evolving creators building their businesses with a slow, steady, and sometimes rocky cadence. As Black designers continue to fight for visibility, funding, and lasting support, Brandice Daniel— founder and CEO of Harlem’s Fashion Row and ICON360 — is leading efforts to usher in the next generation. By partnering with brands to offer financial backing and launching initiatives like the Runway Ahead Designer Fellowship (presented through ICON360 and created by the PVH Foundation), she provides designers with funding, executive mentorship, and business development support.
The $100,000 grant provides mentorship and funding to help emerging designers of color grow and sustain their brands. This year's winner was Waina Chancy, founder of Atelier Ndigo. For Daniel, the 19th iteration felt distinctive.
“What made this year especially meaningful was seeing so many generations of creativity represented in one room,” she says. “From celebrating icons who have influenced culture to investing in designers building the businesses of tomorrow and giving an 11-year-old designer a platform to share her vision, the evening represented what Harlem’s Fashion Row has always been about — creating opportunities and building something that lasts. As we move toward our twentieth year, we are excited to continue creating space for the people and ideas that will shape fashion’s future.”
That commitment to legacy, innovation, and community resonated throughout the evening, including in this year’s brand partnerships. PATTERN Beauty served as the official hair and body sponsor, while Dior served as the official makeup sponsor.
“We were honored to serve as the official hair and body sponsor of Harlem’s Fashion Row’s 19th Annual Fashion Show & Style Awards, celebrating the Black designers and creatives shaping the future of fashion and culture,” says Tracee Ellis Ross, PATTERN’s Co-CEO and Founder. “As a brand centered around the celebration of Black beauty and Black joy, it was especially meaningful for PATTERN to stand alongside the designers and creatives whose work reflects the power, beauty, and richness of our culture.”
Both brands contributed expert teams to help realize the designers’ visions on the runway. For Marie Simone, leading the hairstyling team backstage and collaborating with designers was a highlight. “Working with the designers was beautiful because designers are true visionaries,” she tells TZR. “They already have a world living in their minds. My job, as a hair artist and creative, is to step into that world, understand it, and then help translate their vision through hair.”
She says the question guiding her work was: What does the hair need to say within this story? Backstage, stylists crafted sleek, textured buns, braids, and silk-pressed, straight styles, drawing inspiration from the ’90s aesthetic.
Take Harlem-based Rey Jaiteh, founded by Lamin “Rey” Jaiteh: the designer chose a modern spin on the iconic flipped hair of the '90s, which paired perfectly with structural denim pieces and sharp jackets on the runway. Simone relished the chance to bring that moment to life.
“Hair in the ’90s had a presence,” she tells TZR. “It could tell its own story without competing with the clothing.” That was an important consideration for crafting each look. “I wanted the hair and fashion to each have their own voice, but when you saw them together, they felt like one complete story. There was structure and texture, but also softness.”
Alternatively, Atelier Ndigo went with a sleek ponytail with a surprising detail at the length of the ponytail. “From the front, the ponytail is very sleek, clean, and classic,” she explains. “But when the model turns around, you discover this beautiful textured creation.” If you’re wondering if the surprise was intentional. Simone says absolutely.
Dior International Backstage Makeup Artist Ricky Wilson carves out looks with the same level of thoughtfulness. “Harlem’s Fashion Row is important to me because I love everything it stands for,” he tells TZR. “When I started doing makeup years ago, I always had dreams of working backstage, collaborating with designers, and doing photo shoots for major publications. I was a young black makeup artist with no real mentorship, looking to find my way. Fast forward to now, I love inspiring members on my backstage team, giving them the opportunities I had to learn on the fly.”
Wilson says the HFR look inspirations this year were all so different, but there was a common thread: being very skin-forward. For this, skin prep was key, using Dior Capture Le Serum and the new Dior Hydrating Invisible UV Fluid Broad Spectrum SPF 50 for a subtle glow. “Because the foundation needed to remain flawless for hours, I chose the Dior Forever Skin Wear Foundation for all designers,” he shares.
Together, Simone and Wilson helped ensure each designer’s vision came to life — flawlessly, from head to toe.
Chuks Collins, a Nigerian designer who fuses African heritage, contemporary design, and sophisticated tailoring, went with a no-makeup look with a sculptural twist. “I used different shades of the Dior Forever Skin Contour Stick to make the models appear fresh yet chiseled.”
For Ray Jaiteh, Wilson says the look was a nod to one of his favorite shows, Stranger Things. “I created the upside-down smoky eye using a mixture of black Diorshow On Stage Crayon liner in 099 Black and dark smoky shadows, adding much more product to the lower lids.”
Lastly, for Atelier Ndigo, glass skin with pops of color were the details. “Every model had at least two different Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Blush Sticks and three different Dior Backstage Glassy Glow Sticks to give a beautiful wet look to the skin,” he explains. Then he finished each model's lips with his “absolute favorite” Dior Addict Lipstick in shade 194 Sparkly Dice.
Beyond the runway show, the evening celebrated six creatives whose influences span fashion, media, and music. Erykah Badu received the Fashion Icon Award, while Wisdom Kaye earned The Virgil Abloh Award, presented by LVMH. Other honorees included Brandon Blackwood (Designer of the Year), Audrey Smaltz (The Ann Lowe Maverick Award), Jahleel Weaver (Stylist of the Year), and Recho Omondi (Editor of the Year). Together, these awards spotlighted the breadth of Black talent shaping today’s creative landscape.
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