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Jena Covello on the formula her lab took without permission

Jena Covello discovered her lab had taken a formula she created and brought it to market without her permission.

3 min read Latest from Marie Claire
Jena Covello on the formula her lab took without permission
Holi (radiance) Msm & Ceramosides™ for Hair, Skin, Gut Integrity, Glutathione & Collagen Support — Default Title

Trust is the quietest currency in any creative industry, and Jena Covello just learned how easily it can be spent without your consent. What happened to her, a lab taking a proprietary ingredient to a trade show and effectively handing it to competitors, is not a scandal; it is a symptom. The real story is about what happens when a founder's intuition outpaces her legal infrastructure, and how the beauty and wellness industry rewards the loudest marketer, not the first innovator.

Covello discovered Ceramosides™, a patented wheat lipid with genuine hair-growth properties, and chose to brand it quietly as "French patented ceramides" to protect its identity. She brought it to Lief Labs without an NDA, an honest oversight from someone new to supplements, and the lab presented the ingredient at SupplySideWest as if it were theirs to share. Now brands like Lemme and Codeage are using it, and Covello's once-proprietary edge is becoming a commodity. This is the same industry dynamic we see in beauty trends that arrive fully formed but hollow: true innovation is rare, and what fills the gap is packaging, storytelling, and timing. It echoes the quiet power of a look that needs no explanation, Volume That Speaks Without Trying, except here the volume is coming from everyone else.

What matters for the customer is simpler than it sounds. You will soon see Ceramosides™ in dozens of supplements, all promising better hair and skin, and none of them will mention that Agent Nateur was the first to bring it to market. The practical takeaway is this: when a brand leads with an ingredient name rather than a proprietary formulation, you are buying distribution, not discovery. Covello's mistake was trusting a partner without paperwork, but the deeper lesson is that in this industry, ownership is only as real as the paper it is written on. The same impulse that drives a woman to pick her era with intention, to choose what defines her, must extend to how she protects what she builds.

Covello now owns her formulas outright and has signed multiple NDAs with specific wording. That is the only path forward for any founder who wants to keep what they create. The rest of the market will chase the ingredient; Agent Nateur will keep moving. Watch for their upcoming collaboration with a world-famous heritage brand, that is the real signal. Not the ingredient everyone is copying, but the one they cannot replicate.

From Latest from Marie Claire

Last week, Jena Covello, founder of Agent Nateur, posted a story on her personal Instagram, detailing how her lab peddled her proprietary hair growth formula without consulting her. The black-and-white serif text read: “What’s happened to me is a huge deal. It’s the equivalent of [Augustinus] Bader releasing their technology [TFC8] publicly.” Covello was essentially pointing a finger at Lief Labs, the supplement manufacturer she worked with to bring her holi (radiance) MSM & Ceramosides supplement for hair, skin, gut integrity, glutathione, and collagen support to market in June 2023.

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