And just like that, London Fashion Week spring/summer 2027 draws to a close. And what a season it was! From the highly anticipated return of two major British houses, McQueen and Mulberry, to the inclusion of some high street greats like M&S and H&M, as well as the continuing plethora of emerging designers such as Ahluwalia, Chopova Lowena and those represented by Fashion East, it was no shortage of fun, frivolity and genuine innovation.
Starting strong with the bigger names, SS/27 had something to prove in London. Under Laura Weir's leadership at the British Fashion Council—where she has made a major impact in what feels like no—this season welcomed Mulberry and McQueen back on the London schedule. Whilst McQueen had been showing in Paris (under creative direction from Seán McGirr), Mulberry hadn't shown at all since 2020, taking a six-year hiatus from ready-to-wear. Where Christopher Kane's first Mulberry collection showcased pieces cleverly representing the shape of the iconic flap of the brand's signature Bayswater bag, the McQueen show was all about the duality of opposing forces: the historical and the modern, the sacred and the subcultural and dark gothicism alongside sultry and soft textures.
Of course we can't mention London and not speak about Burberry, who as always, closed London Fashion Week on Monday evening. Noted by critics as being one of, if not the, best collections by creative director Daniel Lee, it offered everything one wants for spring; light pastels with pretty, feminine flourishes such as sequin and embroidery, as well as a whole new look for the house's iconic trench coat. For example, my personal favourite was one in a light blue organza sheer fabric (one of the most dominant trends of I spotted on the runways), that was covered in embellished beading to look like wisteria.
The organza trench coat wasn't the only outerwear trend noticed. Raincoats—an item often overlooked as one to only be worn for practicality in mind—were everywhere in different shapes, sizes and patterns. Stripes at Roksanda, checks at Mulberry and Burberry, plastic at Natasha Zinko... Who knew this staple could be so chic? Possibly my favourite observation of the week was the popularity of big knickers. They came embellished at Erdem, in leather and silk with appliqué roses at Simone Rocha. Similarly, exposed bras—a trend I predicted would dominate last spring—are still having a moment, which was confirmed by the Prada show in Milan. This falls into our 'Boudoir Dressing' trend, which encapsulates the romance, femininity and nostalgia for the lace lingerie, silky slip dresses and feathered gowns that one might find in a ladies boudoirs in the Golden Age. On the contrary, this trend sits alongside some shows that made a strong case for the return of 2000s rock, indie and emo subcultures, but more on that below...
5 Trends From London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027
1. Boudoir Dressing
2026 has been said to be the year of whimsy, it's also the first time we've seen a strong resurgence of 1920s style since Karl Lagerfeld introduced it again the 2000s at Chanel. And what is more whimsical, more Golden Age-coded, than dressing like one is sat lounging in a plush boudoir. Lace camisole dresses were spotted at Coquette-favourites ssuch as Yuhan Wang, Ashley Williams and Simone Rocha, where as feather boas and opera coats that slung casually off the shoulders were seen at Erdem. Adding to this were exposed lace bras at Chopova Lowena, McQueen and Susan Fang. So if you happen to sleep in something this pretty and fabulous, perhaps you needn't get dressed in the mornings come spring at all.
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2. Big Knicker Engery
There's nothing I love more than when fashion is a little provocative, or better yet, silly. The presence, or lack thereof, of clothing on the bottom half, showing off some fabulous pants, was without doubt my favourite trend on the London runways. Where Erdem embroidered their big knicker-shorts with beading and sequin, Simone Rocha offered pairs in leather and silk. Yuhan Wang went filly and checked, and styled at times with two layered together. Natasha Zinko's on the other hand—subversive as ever—came teeny tiny and adorned with a slogan on the front. The memo was clear: put your panties on display, please!
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3. Rock Chic 2.0
It's no secret that we've been anticipating the return of Indie Sleaze for some time. Whilst London, in fact all of the UK, was integral to this movement in 2011, I want to make a case for a more specific rock-coded subculture. Welcome, Camdencore (OK, perhaps I've just coined this, but hear me out...)
Indie sleaze might have given us Napoleon jackets and American Apparel, but for SS/27, the rock influences get a little heavier. And it's more than wearing black, leather and skinny jeans. John Richmond showcased punky leather jackets, studded belts and spiked chokers. Richmond also offered slouchy peep toe ankle boots, fascinators and pop-punk pink—very emo-coded. So perhaps we're due a rock revival? Get ready to enter your Avril Lavigne, Ashley Simpson era.
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4. Rad Raincoats
Spring may come with the promise of better weather, but we should also know to expect some April showers. As such, the runways delivered something quite practical: raincoats. You might be thinking, "But wait? Raincoats aren't new?" Wait until you see them! These rad raincoat styles are rebranding what you knew about such a functional staple. Embellished at Burberry, checked at Mulberry and plastic at Toga and Keburia, there's protection against the elements no matter what your style. Just be warned, we can't guarantee their waterproofness.
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5. Orgasmic Organza
The use of organza was hard to miss, but what I found most compelling was the varying interpretations and uses. Organza's delicate softness most often lends well to ultra feminine creations—see them here put alongside florals and lace at Toga and Simone Rocha—but there were so many other placements that felt genuinely fresh and different. At Mulberry, Kane layered golden and iridescent organza patches one on top of the other to create textured shift dresses. At Ahluwalia, it sat next to fringe, silks and sportswear. Roksanda, Agro Studio and Pauline Dujancourt used organza to create structure, lending a sense of modernity and the avant-garde. But at McQueen, employed organza to give volume to the shoulders, ruffles to the jackets, which when styled with sheer black trousers and a knee-length skirt, felt cool, dark and irreverent. Just like Lee McQueen himself.
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