The Best Spring 2027 Shows at New York Fashion Week, According to 'Marie Claire' Editors
Our take
The cyclical nature of fashion often feels relentless, a dizzying parade of trends and fleeting moments. Yet, every season’s New York Fashion Week offers a chance to pause, reflect, and discern what truly resonates. *Marie Claire’s* recent assessment of Spring 2027’s shows, singling out Kallmeyer, Diane von Furstenberg, and Brandon Maxwell, feels particularly insightful in a landscape increasingly saturated with noise. It’s a reminder that enduring appeal isn’t about chasing the newest, loudest aesthetic, but about honoring established legacies while subtly evolving. The continued prominence of these designers speaks to a deeper craving for timelessness – a sentiment echoed in the broader industry, as seen in articles like [Trinity Tatum's Crop Top, Elle Fanning's Crystal Bag, and More Celeb Front-Row Looks] and [Lexi Minetree's Look For Carolina Herrera's Spring/Summer 2027 Show Leans Into The Purple Trend], both highlighting how even fleeting celebrity moments often draw inspiration from classic silhouettes and established houses. This isn’t a rejection of innovation, but a calibration – a desire for pieces that feel both current and inherently enduring.
The selection by *Marie Claire* underscores a shift in the fashion conversation, moving away from the purely performative aspects of runway shows towards a more considered appreciation of craftsmanship and design heritage. Kallmeyer's quietly sophisticated tailoring, von Furstenberg’s enduring embrace of feminine silhouettes, and Maxwell’s ability to capture a modern American sensibility – these are not trends, but foundational elements of style. They represent a departure from the fleeting micro-trends that dominate social media, a return to the core values of quality, fit, and enduring design. Furthermore, the piece implicitly acknowledges the growing influence of stylists and individuals like Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, whose perspective – explored in [Gabriella Karefa-Johnson Wants Fashion to Look Beyond the Front Row for Style Inspiration] – is pushing the industry to look beyond the typical runway gaze and consider broader cultural influences and individual expression. The emphasis on these established names suggests a collective fatigue with the constant churn and a renewed appreciation for designers who have consistently delivered thoughtful and wearable collections.
This prioritization of established houses also reflects a broader consumer shift towards what’s been dubbed “quiet luxury.” It’s a reaction against the overt displays of wealth and branding that have characterized recent fashion cycles. Consumers are increasingly seeking pieces that exude understated elegance and quality, rather than screaming for attention. The enduring appeal of designers like von Furstenberg, who built her brand on accessible luxury and empowering women, aligns perfectly with this sentiment. It's a conscious decision to invest in pieces that will last, both in terms of their construction and their aesthetic relevance. This isn’t about rejecting all forms of self-expression, but about finding ways to express individuality through considered choices rather than fleeting trends. The power lies in the subtlety, in the understanding that true style transcends seasons and social media cycles.
Looking ahead, it will be fascinating to observe how this appreciation for enduring design impacts the future of New York Fashion Week and the broader fashion industry. Will we see a continued embrace of established houses, or will a new generation of designers emerge who can successfully blend heritage with innovation? The current trajectory suggests a move towards a more grounded and intentional approach to fashion – one that prioritizes quality, craftsmanship, and timeless style over fleeting trends. The question remains: can the industry maintain this equilibrium, balancing the need for innovation with a respect for enduring design principles, or will the pull of the ephemeral once again dominate the landscape?
Even before the first official New York Fashion Week show, it was off to the races (no, runways) for Team Marie Claire. Everyone from the editor-in-chief Nikki Ogunnaike to the deputy director of social media Christina Dambrosio brushed elbows with celebrities, served looks on the sidelines, and applauded Spring/Summer 2027 shows from American brands, both storied and burgeoning.
For our editors, Fashion Month began on the guest lists of Cult Gaia and Coach: Dambrosio and the associate social media editor, Ashlyn Delaney, spotted Katie Holmes in an all-black look at Cult Gaia and Elle Fanning in leopard at Coach. Once Coach closed the curtain on its 85th birthday party (with the gift of a new It bag), the interim senior fashion news editor, Irina Grechko, zoomed to Henry Zankov's artistic director debut at Diane von Furstenberg. She called the collection an "explosion of color, movement, and joy," but half a day later at Kallmeyer, the energy shifted to spotlight "understated confidence rather than excess," according to senior shopping editor Cortne Bonilla-Oliva.
Believe it or not, the aforementioned recaps are only from the first 48 hours. Keep scrolling for everything you need to know about Marie Claire's favorite New York Fashion Week shows during the S/S 2027 season. And stay tuned for our reactions to Simone Rocha in London, the runway debut of Moschino's new designers in Milan, and Jonathan Anderson's return to Paris Fashion Week.
Brandon Maxwell's New York Fashion Week Show
"In Brandon Maxwell's show notes, he shared that this collection represents greater ease and honesty, two attributes I've looked for in not just my clothes but my life, especially as I've gotten older! The designs were sporty, city-inspired, and easy, yet elegant. Everything I look for in a wardrobe."—Nikki Ogunnaike, editor-in-chief
Altuzarra's New York Fashion Week Show
"My favorite show at Fashion Week was Altuzarra. The barn jacket is everywhere right now, but Altuzarra made it feel like more than another trend piece. It was fashionified, belted but undone, and layered over enormous crinoline skirts. Joseph Altuzarra is great at designing clothes that feel romantic and personal, but you can also move through real life in them."—Sara Holzman, style director
Diane von Furstenberg's New York Fashion Week Show
"As someone who both spent my first paycheck on a Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress when I moved to New York 15 years ago and has been enjoying the meteoric rise of Henry Zankov's knitwear-centric brand in the last few years, the designer's debut for the label was one of my most anticipated shows of the season. It didn't disappoint: From the opening wrap dress (pictured above) to the Studio 54-inspired looks that I could imagine Dame Diane wearing in the late '70s, the newest DVF collection was an explosion of color, movement, and joy."—Irina Grechko, interim senior fashion news editor
Kallmeyer's New York Fashion Week Show
"I love Kallmeyer’s Spring 2027 collection for the way it captures a distinctly modern femininity—assured, pragmatic, and sensual without ever feeling overly considered. The clothes embody the woman I want to dress like now: someone who moves effortlessly between work, motherhood, dinner, and everything in between, relying on impeccable tailoring and understated confidence rather than excess."—Cortne Bonilla-Oliva, senior shopping editor
Simkhai's New York Fashion Week Show
"Not only does Simkhai SS27 feel fresh and innovative, but it also feels distinctly wearable. The pieces have structure without feeling stiff, and I was especially drawn to the collection’s reimagined takes on the 'jeans and a top' combo. Surprisingly, it was the pops of primary color that caught my eye most, infusing an unexpected element of fun into the pieces."—Christina Dambrosio, deputy director of social media
Eckhaus Latta's New York Fashion Week Show
"Thanks to J.Crew's new collaboration with Eckhaus Latta, the bicoastal brand's Spring/Summer 2027 show became a can't-miss event on my calendar. Hours after news of the 'unpretentious' partnership broke online, lead designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta debuted a blend of eccentric textures, layered shirts straight out of the 2000s, and tasteful semi-sheer styles. It was a master class in styling minimalist silhouettes with maximalist shades and materials.
The same could be said of the J.Crew x Eckhaus Latta collaboration, which closed the show. Watching the label shift the spotlight to brand-new rugby shirts, skirt sets, and Rollneck sweaters influenced me to place another order."—Meguire Hennes, fashion staff writer
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