The CFDA's United Flags Of Fashion Reimagines State Designs For America's 250th Anniversary
Our take
The fashion world’s intersection with cultural heritage is rarely so overt, so celebratory, and yet, so inherently stylish. The Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) “United Flags of Fashion” project, a collaboration with Rockefeller Center marking America’s 250th anniversary, is a fascinating endeavor, breathing new life into familiar symbols. It's a bold move to reimagine these emblems, historically laden with meaning and often aesthetically…challenging, through the lens of contemporary design. The project immediately invites comparison to larger conversations around cultural appropriation and the responsibility of designers when engaging with established iconography, but the CFDA’s stated intention – to highlight the diversity and creativity within the American fashion landscape – suggests a thoughtful approach. And given the current trends in elevated aesthetics, it's a welcome shift from the often-garish interpretations seen in other patriotic displays. We've been seeing a similar embrace of heritage and reinterpretation in other areas of style, as exemplified by how Lupita Nyong'o's stylist shares how she put together those The Odyssey Press Tour looks Lupita Nyong'o's Stylist Shares How She Put Together Those The Odyssey Press Tour Looks, demonstrating the power of nuanced cultural references. Furthermore, the project echoes the current embrace of personal style, as seen with Stassi Schroeder’s launch – "I'm Giving Chic Raven" [I'm Giving Chic Raven]: Get Ready With Stassi Schroeder for Her Premiere Party [/post/i-m-giving-chic-raven-get-ready-with-stassi-schroeder-for-he-cms6e53hg0271wjtfitjccl3h], which showcases the power of individual expression within established frameworks.
The beauty of this initiative lies in its potential to spark a broader conversation about what “American” identity *means* in the 21st century. State flags, in particular, often reflect a specific historical narrative, sometimes one that is contested or incomplete. By inviting over 120 designers to reinterpret them, the CFDA isn't simply creating a visually appealing installation; it's prompting a re-evaluation of those narratives through a contemporary lens. The project's success hinges on the sensitivity and artistry with which these reinterpretations are executed. Will the designers lean into bold, abstract designs, or will they subtly nod to the original flag’s symbolism? The choices they make will speak volumes about their understanding of American history and their vision for its future. It’s a delicate balance – honoring the past while forging a path forward, a sentiment that resonates deeply with the current cultural climate.
Beyond the immediate visual impact, “United Flags of Fashion” has implications for the role of fashion in public discourse. For too long, fashion has been perceived as a frivolous pursuit, disconnected from larger societal concerns. This project, however, demonstrates the power of design to engage with complex issues and contribute to a meaningful dialogue. It’s a reminder that fashion isn’t just about clothing; it’s about identity, culture, and the stories we tell ourselves about who we are. The fact that the exhibition is taking place in Rockefeller Center, a highly visible and symbolic location, further amplifies its message. It brings high fashion out of the exclusive confines of runways and magazines and into the realm of public art and cultural commentary. It’s a strategic move that elevates the CFDA’s profile and positions American fashion as a force for innovation and social awareness.
Ultimately, the “United Flags of Fashion” project is a testament to the evolving nature of luxury and the subtle power of intentional design. It’s a quiet affirmation of American creativity – not through loud displays of patriotism, but through the thoughtful reimagining of enduring symbols. The question now is whether this project will inspire other cultural institutions to explore similar collaborations, blurring the lines between fashion, art, and public engagement. Will we see more brands embracing this sort of culturally sensitive and artistically driven storytelling, or will this remain a unique, albeit striking, moment in the fashion calendar?
The 50 U.S. state flags are getting a fashionable makeover, courtesy of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In celebration of America’s 250th anniversary this year, the CFDA has partnered with Rockefeller Center for a special project, “United Flags of Fashion,” to have the flags surrounding the landmark’s skating rink and Pebble Bar reinterpreted by American fashion designers. Over 120 flags spanning each of the 50 states, as well as Washington, D.C., American Samoa, Guam, Puerto Rico, and U.S. Virgin Islands, will be on display until September 4 — just before the start of New York Fashion Week’s Spring 2027 season.
For the project, the CFDA assigned designers state-specific designs to reinterpret. New York had six different interpretations submitted, with Calvin Klein, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Raul Lopez of Luar, Donna Karan, and Vera Wang each showing different takes on the state flag — including everything from an Art Deco-like landscape of Manhattan to a stark white background simply stating “New York” in thin black letters.
Meanwhile, The Zoe Report’s Founder and Editor-at-Large, Rachel Zoe, paid homage to Colorado with a flag featuring a gold ram on rugged red mountains beneath the rays of an interlocking sun and moon. “I am so excited for the debut of the United Flags of Fashion...I loved having the opportunity to create a reimagined flag for one of my favorite states,” the stylist and entrepreneur wrote on Instagram Stories. “Colorado is such a special place to my family and I. I had so much fun designing this and adding a little ‘70s glamour to the flag.”
Legacy designers like Ralph Lauren, Diane von Furstenberg, Kenneth Cole, Tory Burch, and Thom Browne also contributed flags for the project, with rising brands like Kate Barton, Jameel Mohammed Khiry, Tanner Fletcher, L’enchanteur, Meruert Tolegen, and Melitta Baumeister also participating.
Rachel Scott, representing her label Diotima, crafted a geometric black, blue, green, and red-paneled flag for the U.S. Virgin Islands. Through his namesake Zankov brand, Henry Zankov packed a punch with a bright yellow and navy abstract pattern representing Oregon. GapStudio’s Zac Posen also made a denim-inspired flag for California, featuring a patchwork version of the state’s signature bear and star symbols.
Accessories designers across all practices also had a hand in the project. Together, Presley Oldham and Tyler Paige depicted Vermont’s flag with a frame of multicolored stripes surrounding a maple leaf. Much like her signature clutches, Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman cheekily showed a marijuana leaf around a color-blocked landscape in hues of red, yellow, orange, and purple. Washington, D.C. was specifically given two flags for the project: an illustration of the Capitol and White House buildings surrounded by cherry blossoms by Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Bendet, and a simple monochromatic red version by ERL’s Russell Linnetz.
Additional pieces on display include flags representing the CFDA, Rockefeller Center, and Vogue, as well as a 250th anniversary flag for the country as a whole. In the coming weeks, each of the U.S. state and territory flags will be rotated to display the full assortment of designs from everyone involved. Together, the range of designs highlights the diverse backgrounds, skills, and disciplines that make up the American fashion industry, marking a stylish conclusion to the summer before Fashion Month begins.
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