Everything You Need to Know About New York Fashion Week, According to Our Editors
Our take
The cyclical nature of fashion weeks can sometimes feel like a relentless churn, a dizzying display of fleeting trends. Yet, the recent New York Fashion Week, as discussed in *The Who What Wear Podcast*, offers a compelling counterpoint—a sense of groundedness and wearability that resonates deeply with the current cultural mood. It’s a welcome shift away from purely conceptual runway pieces towards designs that genuinely integrate into everyday life. This isn’t to say innovation has vanished; rather, it's manifesting in a more considered, practical way. We’ve seen this reflected in broader conversations about mindful consumption, and the emphasis on pieces that offer lasting value, a sentiment echoed in articles like The Jewelry Staples Worth Owning, According to an Antique Jewelry Dealer, which highlights the enduring appeal of timeless accessories. The focus isn't on chasing the next viral moment, but on cultivating a personal style that feels authentic and enduring.
The editors’ enthusiasm for the most wearable looks, as detailed in The Best NYFW Looks Were Also the Most Wearable, signals a significant evolution in how we perceive and engage with runway fashion. Traditionally, runway shows have been seen as aspirational, often distant from the realities of consumer wardrobes. Now, there's a clear desire for immediacy, for inspiration that can be translated into tangible style choices. This shift is not merely a reaction to economic uncertainties; it's a reflection of a broader cultural yearning for authenticity and a rejection of performative excess. The continued recognition of established names like Diane von Furstenberg and Brandon Maxwell, as noted in The Best Spring 2027 Shows at New York Fashion Week, According to 'Marie Claire' Editors, underscores the importance of heritage and craftsmanship in a landscape increasingly dominated by fleeting trends. These designers understand the power of timeless silhouettes and quality materials – elements that inherently lend themselves to wearability.
The emphasis on practicality doesn't diminish the creativity or artistry of the collections. Instead, it reframes it. Designers are being challenged to create pieces that are both beautiful and functional, that seamlessly integrate into the lives of their customers. This requires a deeper understanding of consumer needs and a willingness to prioritize longevity over novelty. The “mood, atmosphere, and feeling” that defines a refined lifestyle are still present, but they’re now expressed through a lens of understated elegance and considered design. It’s a move away from the “look at me” mentality and towards a more introspective approach, one that values personal expression over overt displays of status. This aligns perfectly with the growing desire for quiet luxury and a rejection of ostentatious branding.
Ultimately, the current trajectory of New York Fashion Week suggests a broader re-evaluation of the fashion industry’s role in our lives. The focus is shifting from fleeting trends to enduring style, from aspirational fantasy to grounded reality. As we move further into 2027 and beyond, will this emphasis on wearability and authenticity continue to shape the industry, or will we see a return to more overtly theatrical and trend-driven collections? The answer likely lies in the evolving relationship between designers, consumers, and the broader cultural landscape—a landscape that increasingly values self-expression, sustainability, and a quiet confidence rooted in personal style.
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New York Fashion Week may only be the first stop of fashion month, but this season, it gave us plenty to dissect: a buzzy debut at DVF, a knockout sophomore outing from Proenza Schouler, and a color you're about to see everywhere. In the latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, senior fashion editor Anna LaPlaca and Associate Director Kristen Nichols came straight from the shows to break down the collections, the trends, and the designers worth watching next. To read excerpts from the conversation, scroll below.
Which shows were you most anticipating this season, and did they live up to the hype?
Anna LaPlaca: DVF was the one I had my eye on all week, mostly because it marked Henry Zankov's debut as artistic director. He actually started his career at the house years ago working under Diane [von Furstenberg], so his return felt full circle. She even came out for a hug at the end of the show. What I loved most was his color story. DVF is known for print clashing, and the way he approached it felt really fresh, especially in how he reworked the wrap dress with color-blocked panels and contrasting ties pulled from the archives.
Kristen Nichols: For me, it was Proenza Schouler. Rachel Scott's [second collection] felt like she'd really settled in, fusing her own sense of print, color, and texture with everything we already love about the brand. It was the kind of collection where you want to wear every look head to toe. The PS1 Bag also made a comeback, which I think will be a huge moment for spring.
Any emerging designers who really delivered?
AL: Conner Ives crossing over from London to show in New York was a big headline moment, and the collection backed it up. He's technically still an emerging brand, but his aesthetic—opulent silks, embroidery, evening jackets, occasionwear moving into everyday dressing—is meeting the moment in a way that feels totally organic.
KN: I saw his show in London last season too, and it was interesting to see it translate to a bigger stage here. The people he cast felt so core to his world, and it brought the clothes to life in a different way.
What trends stood out as through lines this season?
AL: Cobalt, or Yves Klein blue, is the color of spring 2027. We spotted it at Kallmeyer, Simkhai, and Calvin Klein.
KN: I saw it at Proenza Schouler too. Beyond color, a real sense of romance and new takes on femininity run through the season—Ralph [Lauren's], Altuzarra's, and even Tory Burch's quirkier, embellished take on it.
AL: That ties into something we've been tracking for a few seasons now: this new era of maximalism [that's] less about logos and more about texture, print, and mixing the two.
Do you think these trends will actually make it to market?
KN: Jacquards and brocades—really opulent printed textiles—are already showing up for fall, so I'd expect major staying power heading into spring too.
AL: Evening jackets, specifically. I saw them all over the street style crowd this week, paired with denim or simple black trousers, and I think that's a piece worth investing in now rather than waiting for spring.
Who are your picks for designers to watch?
AL: Jamie Haller, whose flats are a Who What Wear staple at this point, just did her first presentation.
AL: I'm also watching In House Studio—minimalist but sporty, made sustainably for a customer similar to The Row or Colleen Allen.
KN: Colleen Allen is still doing presentations rather than a full runway show, and I'm waiting for that next step. I'd add Herbert Levine and Lii to the list as well.
This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
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